Savile Law’s suit shop is the main backdrop for the movie Kingsman [이십세기폭스코리아 제공]

On one side of Mayfair, home to london’s leading luxury vendors and fine restaurants, is Savile Row, a bespoke tailor-made street.

The 12-13 luxury tailors, including Huntsman & Sons, the backdrop to the movie “Kingsman: The Secret Agent,” have been attracting international celebrities and signatories for decades, including the British royal family.

Although the average suit is between 6 million and 7 million won, and expensive, it is more than 10 million won, but customer demand continued as the world’s best tailors worked hard for three to six months to produce a “sweat of sweat”.

Workers at nearby offices were also dressed in saviour clothes and ties.

Savile Law, who has become a fan of the movie Kingsman and a must-visit for fashion-friendly people in London, has recently turned into a landscape that doesn’t match the sunny weather.

Already, about one-third of the four or five savile row suits have been closed, and the remaining businesses have also shortened their opening hours.

Hardy AMIES, who created the dress of Queen Elizabeth II in England and was knighted for her work in movie costumes such as Space Odyssey, recently closed.

Many of the taylors who worked in Gabon in the basement of the Savile Law suit shop also left the streets.

What happened.

The most direct blow came from a new coronavirus infection (Corona 19).

The global economic downturn has reduced demand for high-quality handmade suits, and travel restrictions have reduced overseas customers.

Above all, the fact that the custom tailored clothes, which require meticulous measurement of the customer’s body, have had an impact that makes it impossible to keep social distances.

The heavy, overlapping styles of clothes did not fit the recent trend of wanting lighter and more casual clothes.

I recently heard about the drastic changes surrounding Savile Law through Taylor Kim Dong-hyun, 31, a Korean who works at cad & the Dandy, a tailor shop here.

Kim studied costume at a Korean university and earned a bachelor’s degree in bespoke tailoring from the London College of Art (UAL) fashion school in London, where he studied clothes.

Since then, she has worked at Savile Row as the first and only Taylor in Korea, and has also produced clothes for celebrities such as Qatari royalty.

The following is a telephone interview with Kim on 1 January.

Kim Dong-hyun, the only Korean to be savile by Taylor [김동현씨 제공]

◇ British Queen dress maker Hardy Amis also closes the door

— There is a place that has been closed in saviour.

▲ Corona 19 closed four to five locations, about one-third of the total 12-13 locations. Chester BARRIE, KILGOUR and JOSEPH are closed, including hardy amis’ shop, famous for the Queen’s dress maker, Maurice Sedwell, Norton and SONS , WELSH AND JEFFERIES, Davies and SONS, denman and goddard (DENMAN AND GODDARD) are closed.

— If there’s anything different than it used to be.

▲ The cars of The Cad and the Dandy, which I work for, anderson & Sheppard, which is mainly used by Prince Charles, and Gieves & Hawkes, where Prince William and Prince Harry were dressed, are open but are more limited than ever before. In the past, you could just come into the tailor shop and go around or talk, but now you have to make a reservation in advance.

Overseas orders also decreased. Before Corona 19, it was called the Trunk Show, which often carried fabrics and gabon booklets in travel trunks to find overseas customers and then placed orders, but this was not smooth.

In the past, i went to China and Korea two or three trunk shows a year, but now i don’t have them.

— What kind of damage did corona 19 take to make a suit?

▲ It usually takes 3-6 months to build a custom suit. It is called gabon to try to sew the clothes by hand. In order to make a suit, you must visit the tailor shop two or three times and go gabon. However, because of corona 19, face-to-face services such as gabon work are being restricted.

◇ Reduced to one-tenth of the demand for tailored clothes… Desolate Savile Row

— How much demand has been reduced.

▲ Cad and the Dandy decreased to 1/10. Since Corona 19, most office workers have worked from home. There are no people nearby. These office workers have ordered a lot of these things, such as shirts, but they haven’t had such an order since they’ve been at home. Due to restrictions on travel, foreign demand has plummeted.

The atmosphere at Savile Road is sagging because there is no current population. There were no people to come and go, so a sandwich shop nearby was closed. The street itself is desolate.

Maurice Sedwill, a tailor shop in Savile, London , was the first to see the aftermath of the recession on Savile Road, london’s famous custom-made tailor-made shop, after the outbreak of the new Coronavirus Infection (Corona19). Maurice SEDWELL, a tailor who closed the door. 2020.8.1 pdhis959@yna.co.kr

— Taylors often lost their jobs.

▲ The place where the business was closed is obvious, and the number of places that opened has been reduced a lot. In the case of Cad and the Dandy, there were about 10 Taylors, including me, and now there are three or four. In the sales part, five or six people quit, and two people are in charge of sales. The remaining people also had less income. It receives 80% compared to the previous year.

— Is there any change such as price cuts to make up for reduced demand?

▲ Rather than lowering the price, we are trying to do marketing that we didn’t do before. For example, in response to Corona 19, the mask is made and sold using a suit fabric. It’s about 30 pounds (about 45,000 won) each, and dozens of them are sold, which helps with imports.

◇ Time of change in traditional clothes… Weight-to-light, simplification demand grows

— Is Corona 19 a major change to Savile, including the closure.

▲ It is clear that Corona 19 has caused management difficulties. However, it is hard to say that Savile Roe collapsed because of Corona 19. Before Corona 19, a number of changes had already begun to predict the difficulties of Savile Row.

British suits are traditionally rigid and constructive. It’s kind of like armor. The shirt is heavily clothed with a vest and a jacket again. Something was built up to create the molding of the human body. But already people are moving into clothes that are a little more comfortable. It is the era of lightweighting and simplification. In addition to commuting to Corona 19, telecommuting spread. There’s nothing to commute to work on, so you want clothes that are lighter and more casual than traditional suits, and clothes that can be easily taken off, even if you have a formal shape.

In the past, there were restaurants in England that could not be accessed without a jacket, and many racetracks that could not enter without a tie. But times are changing. Traditional clothes are expected to be a kind of work of art, something that artisans do, like ceramics. It is taylor’s task and mission to create new clothes to match the senses of the times.

Changes are already occurring. Conservative companies have not previously made casual clothes, such as safari jackets, but now they do. More and more places are making lightweight suits. Britain itself is a place where little has changed. However, there is a slight change in Savile Road, and Corona 19 is expected to accelerate this further.

— There is no plan for the future.

▲ Once cad and the dandy have a job. Overseas royalty, such as those who have previously dressed here, continue to place orders. However, if the aftermath of Corona 19 continues and things are cut off, i think we should be able to keep up with the changes. I wonder if i will pursue my own business and design.

Hardy Amis, a long-time correspondent for The Associated Press, whose work as a dressmaker for Queen Elizabeth II of England for decades, has closed her tailor shop on Savile Row. 2020.8.1 pdhis959@yna.co.kr

pdhis959@yna.co.kr



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